Is regulation an innovation-inhibiting factor?
Thrusday, April 12th 2014
Every year, we can find in big box stores more and more brands, new products with original textures and advertising claims ever more promising. In this area where competition is fierce, we must create innovation. However, cosmetic regulation is more and more severe, especially since the European regulation’s modification has been in effect on July 11, 2013, but that’s not all. Indeed, due to their (many) exigencies, REACH and CLP regulations, restrictions for using CMR and nanomaterials in cosmetic products and the IFRA Amendment in particular, delay suppliers, manufacturers and service providers in their race for novelty. They must do a lot of toxicological tests before put a new product or a new substance on the market, but they also have to perform an assessment of the effectiveness of the product to claim particulars pertaining to benefits among consumers. All that leads to a significant loss of time and money for suppliers and manufacturers. Marketing teams must then tweak it for not having a more significant increase in the cost of launching new products due to regulatory costs.
As a result of these amendments, some suppliers are turning towards the development of multi-application and multi-ingredients optimizing ingredients known or assets to undeniable virtues with new features in order to objectify up to have the best safety/efficiency ratio. Others preferred originality and decided to offer a smaller catalog of products with innovative and effective ingredients. A long term goal of these types of providers is to use substances in accordance with the export function in multiple international regulations.
The same is true for the conception of new cosmetic products; we need to anticipate the demand and to find a way to avoid the additional costs in compliance with the official regulation. Raw material selection is crucial, it is necessary to use known ingredients and objectified and tested actives. Laboratories therefore propose new formulations to improve the properties of commonly used ingredients and thus facilitate regulatory approaches. The challenge therefore is to find a balance between safety and efficiency of the cosmetic product.
It’s true that the regulation requires new thinking on the design of innovative products. However, it will not constitute an obstacle to the cosmetic innovation. Rather, it’s an additional challenge which requires once more a large team work, especially for the formulation pole, which requires an adaptation time dedicated to the development of future revolutionary formulas.
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The evolution of allergens regulation
Thrusday, April 5th 2014
Nowadays, most of the cosmetic products on the market are composed by fragrances. Some substances of these fragrances may cause allergic respiratory or skin reactions; we call them skin or contact allergens. They can be synthetic chemicals or naturally occurring substances.
In Europe, we think that 1 to 3% of the population has a reaction after a contact with allergens. The most frequent symptomsare skin irritation and swelling. An allergic reaction depends on several factors, particularly genes, the age and the substances exposure intensity.
Current regulation provides a list of prohibited substances in its second annex, and a list of restricted substances in its third annex. The last updating was in 2003, so it’s today necessary to keep them up to date.
In June 2012, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) identified 3 new substances with a high allergenicity (atranol, chloroatranol and 4-(4-Hydroxy-4-methylpentyl) cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde (HICC)), 12 chemical products and 8 natural extracts potentially irritating. A public meeting with the Committee’s members is scheduled from 13/02/2014 to 14/05/2014. The results will not be disclosed until the end of 2014, or the beginning of 2015. A transition period will be implemented.
The atranol and the chloroatranol will be prohibited in all cosmetics products with a period of two years after the regulation coming into force. The HICC will be withdrawn from the market after five years. The other allergens will be submitted to severe limitations quoted in the third annex of the European regulation. The transition period tabled to impose the inscription of all these substances on the label product like the 26 other allergens already restricted is three years after the modification coming into force.
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Pôle Cosmétique: Forerunner of electronic notification
Cosmetic products must be notified to the European Commission prior to being placed on the European market. This requires registering some information about the product, its composition and labeling. Article 13 of Regulation 1223/2009 EC states that it must be done electronically on the new European notification portal – CPNP (COSMETIC PRODUCTS NOTIFICATION PORTAL).
This centralized reporting will become mandatory from July 13th 2013. True to its ambition to be at the forefront of regulation, Pôle Cosmétique and became the first European company registered in the CPNP on January 11th, 2012 at 11:59.
Pôle Cosmétique completes the process started a year earlier to comply with the new European regulation 1223/2009 EC for creation of Product Information Files (PIFs) without waiting for the deadline of July 13, 2013.
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